How To Branch Fiddle Leaf Figs (Notching vs. Pruning)
Do you have a fiddle leaf fig (Ficus lyrata) that is one tall stalk with no branches and possibly about to scrape the ceiling? Do you really want a tree-like fiddle leaf with a single trunk and multiple branches at the top? If so, you’ve come to the right post.
We’ll get into specific pruning and notching techniques and a step by step process of making your bush-like fiddle leaf into a beautiful branching tree.
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First, if you’re in need of your first fiddle leaf fig either so you have this branching problem to eventually consider, or you want to add an additional fiddle leaf to have a pot with 2 or 3 single stalks, here’s a fiddle leaf fig source.
I do want to say I think fiddle leaf figs look beautiful either way - as multiple single trunks with leaves all the way down to the base or one plant pruned into a tree with a bushy, full canopy. A couple issues with the single-trunk forms though:
One trunk with no lateral branches might eventually hit the ceiling (unless you have really high ceilings!)
If you stick with single-trunk, no laterals, they can look a bit lanky and lonely in their pot after a while. I think they look better with a grouping of 3 single-stalk Ficus lyratas. The plants looks more balanced that way. (This might also be my favorite way to see them - can’t decide.)
So if you’ve decided to prune your fiddle leaf into a tree, there are two methods to do so. One is pruning and the other is notching.
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Why pruning = growth: apical dominance
Ever wondered why pruning does what it does? If you’re anything like me, I always need to know the why behind what I’m doing. Just knowing what to do isn’t enough. So here’s a little plant science for you:
The main vertical stem of a plant grows more vigorously over other side stems. This is known as apical dominance. Apical dominance occurs when the main shoot (the apex) inhibits the growth of lateral buds so that the plant may grow vertically.
The reason is that the plant needs to devote energy into upward growth so it can get more light for photosynthesis. Makes sense, right?
The dominant vertical shoot is able to do this through a hormone called auxin. Auxin always moves downward in the dominant vertical shoot to inhibit the growth and development of lateral buds below the apex which would otherwise grow into branches. Again, it’s forcing the plant to direct it’s energy into upright growth to get more light.
Pruning the apex branch disrupts the flow of growth-regulating auxin so the lower nodes can develop branches. Graphic | Greenhouse Studio
Pruning/Pinching the dominant vertical branch
In the case of your fiddle leaf fig, it’s probably the only branch available to take it from a fiddle leaf bush to a fiddle leaf tree. Here are a couple more points to consider before jumping in:
The more severe the pruning, the greater the resulting regrowth. This is because the plant is regrowing in an attempt to restore a balance between the shoot system (above soil) and the root system below, which is currently set up to support the plant at it’s larger size prior to pruning.
The most vigorous shoot growth will usually occur within 6 to 8 inches of the pruning cut.
OK, let’s get to it.
Make the cut on your fiddle leaf fig
Decide how much of your Ficus lyrata you want to cut. Again, the longer a section you cut, the more significant the branching will be. (And the more you’ll reduce the height of the plant, at least for that shoot.)
If you just pinch out the new buds at the top of your fiddle leaf fig with your fingers, it won’t be stimulated to produce as many lateral branches off of the main trunk.
Pinching is more useful if you want to stimulate a bit of lateral growth to make your plant look fuller near the top.
On the other hand, if you prune 12” of shoot off the top, you’ll see a lot more branching.
Identify which node you want to cut above. Nodes are found on stems and are the points where leaves, buds, or branches grow. Not all nodes have leaves or branches though - there might just be a mark and slight thickening of the stem. The sections in between the nodes on the stem are called internodes.
3. Use a sterile pair of pruners. Make the cut just above the top of your node. Do not cut into the node which would damage it, but just above.
Cutting your fiddle leaf fig or any plant in the fig family will produce an oozing, milky, white latex sap. Just don’t eat it or get it in your eyes as it can be irritating and don’t let it hit the carpet.
4. Final tip - don’t strip leaves off the trunk until your fiddle leaf has established it’s new branches. Those leaves help grow the new lateral buds, so you want your plant as strong as possible.
(Wondering what to do with your pruned plant parts? Why not grow another fiddle leaf fig?)
That’s it! Now wait a few weeks for your new lateral buds which will eventually develop into branches. How long it takes depends on various factors, but your chances of success are better if you do this during spring which is prime growing season rather than winter when fiddle leafs are semi-dormant. New growth will happen faster in spring than if it’s done during winter when it will take the plant longer to recover from the wound and to make new buds.
Small, branching fiddle leaf fig tree. Source | Lauren Mancke on Unsplash
Notching
Notching is where instead of pruning the top shoot, you instead make a careful incision above a node. Notching is an advanced technique and the only reason I’d recommend using it over pruning is if you don’t want to reduce the height of your fiddle leaf.
Notching also works by disrupting the flow of growth regulator hormones (we’re talking auxin again here). Once the wound callouses over, the effect is gone and hormones will flow again.
How to notch your fiddle leaf fig
First, notching requires some finesse. You run the risk of cutting off the limb if the incision is too deep. (But hey, even if you accidentally decapitate your ficus, you’ll certainly have branching!) Make the incision to shallow, and it might not work.
It doesn’t produce consistent results like pruning. Consider making a couple more notches than you want branches, although this could possibly give you less than ideal gaps in your fiddle leaf branches. (Again, this is a non-issue with pruning since it works most effectively on the nodes closest to the wound.)
It’s best done on a woody stem rather than on green growth that is softer and newer.
Here’s how to do it:
Use a clean, sharp blade to make an incision above a node. I used the tip-edge of a new X-Acto knife blade. (The kind where you can snap off the old blades.) This gave me good purchase on the internode. Use pruners as most do if you’re more comfortable.
Just ABOVE the node, make an incision 1/3 of the way around the stem and no more than 1/3 deep into the stem. You’ll see some latex sap which you should wipe up just in case kids or pets decide to lick it since it does look like milk.
The reason for making the incision above rather than below the node is that cutting just above disrupts growth regulating hormones like auxin. Cutting just below a node promotes flowering/fruiting by diverting carbohydrate flow from the vegetative growth into reproductive growth (flowers & fruit).
Leave it alone to heal and hopefully you’ll have buds after several weeks that turn into branches. Again, same as with pruning, you will increase your chances of success by doing this during spring or early summer which is prime growing season for your fiddle leaf.
Final tip - don’t strip leaves off the trunk until your fiddle leaf has established it’s new branches. Those leaves help grow the new lateral buds, so you want your plant as strong as possible.
So that’s basically it. It’s not difficult at all to transform your single-stalk fiddle leaf into a full, tree-like canopy. More than anything, it just takes patience to wait for those branches to appear after you’ve done your pruning or notching.
What do you think? Do you prefer your fiddle leafs single-stalked either alone or in groups or as a single-trunked tree?
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Sources:
https://extension.uga.edu/publications/detail.html?number=B949
https://growingfruit.org/t/advanced-tree-training-techniques-pruning-bending-notching-pinching-etc/17226
Other posts you’ll love:
Propagating Fiddle Leaf Figs [3 methods]
How To Repot A Fiddle Leaf Fig (Planter Size, Soil, Drainage, & Fertilizing)
How to choose the right pot for your plant [Why pot shape & size matters. A lot.]
DIY Vine Trellis for Climbing Indoor Plants
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XO,
Tina